Ireland for Marla: A Personal Guide to the Emerald Isle
Ireland for Marla: A Personal Guide to the Emerald Isle
Photo by Jacek Dylag on Unsplash
Marla is heading to Ireland in the second week of May 2026, and she asked for recommendations. I’ve been lucky enough to spend time in the Republic of Ireland, and these are the places that stuck with me — the ones I’d go back to in a heartbeat.
May is a beautiful time to visit. The days are long (sunset around 9 PM), the countryside is impossibly green, the tourist crowds haven’t peaked yet, and the weather — well, it’s Ireland. Pack layers and a rain jacket and you’ll be fine.
I’ve structured this as a one-week itinerary, but it’s meant to be flexible. Ireland rewards wandering. If a pub has a fire going and a session starting, cancel your plans and stay.
Days 1–3: Dublin
Start in Dublin. It’s walkable, lively, and full of character. Three days gives you enough time to see the highlights without rushing.
Trinity College
I really like Trinity College. The campus is beautiful — cobblestones, old brick, students on bikes — and the Long Room of the Old Library is one of the most stunning spaces in any city I’ve visited. Arched ceiling, towering bookshelves, that particular hush that only old libraries have. Book your tickets in advance for the Book of Kells exhibition; it’s worth it.
Wander the campus grounds after. Sit by the campanile. Soak in the fact that people have been studying here since the 1500s.
The DART: Dublin’s Secret Weapon
The DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit) is the local coastal train, and it’s one of Dublin’s best features. Cheap, scenic, and it opens up the coastline in both directions. Two rides I’d specifically recommend:
North to Howth. Howth is a fishing village on a peninsula about 25 minutes from the city center. The harbor is charming, there are cliff walks with views across Dublin Bay, and — importantly — there’s a great seafood tapas restaurant called Octopussy’s Kitchen right by the harbor. Fresh, creative, reasonably priced. Go for lunch, then walk it off on the cliff path.
South to Dún Laoghaire. About 20 minutes south on the DART. The harbor is massive, the piers are perfect for a walk, and the seafood scene is excellent. Grab fish and chips by the water, or sit down for a proper meal at one of the harbor restaurants. On a sunny day, this is as good as Dublin gets.
If you’re a runner (and even if you’re not), Killiney Hill Park is right next door. It’s a short but gorgeous hill run with panoramic views of Dublin Bay, Killiney Beach, and the Sugarloaf Mountains. The park is small but the elevation makes it rewarding — you earn the view. It’s one of those runs where you stop at the top and just stand there, breathing hard, looking out at the Irish Sea.
Guinness Storehouse
The Guinness brewery tour is touristy, and I don’t care — it’s fun. You learn about the brewing process, the history, the advertising. And the Gravity Bar at the top gives you 360-degree views of Dublin with a pint in your hand. Go early to avoid the worst of the crowds.
Temple Bar
Walking around downtown Dublin and having drinks at Temple Bar is a must. Yes, it’s touristy. Yes, the pints are overpriced. But the atmosphere — live music spilling out of every doorway, people packed into narrow streets, the buzz of a city that genuinely enjoys itself — is infectious. Go in the evening, find a pub with a session, and stay until you’ve made friends with the people next to you.
Johnny Fox’s Pub
If you have access to a car (or a taxi), Johnny Fox’s in the Dublin Mountains is worth the trip. It’s one of the highest pubs in Ireland, it’s been around since the 1700s, and it has the kind of old-school charm that’s getting harder to find. Live music, good food, and a view that reminds you Dublin has real countryside right on its doorstep.
Days 4–5: The South — Killarney, Ring of Kerry, Dingle, and the Cliffs of Moher
Rent a car and head south. This is where Ireland gets truly spectacular.
Killarney
Killarney is the gateway to the Ring of Kerry, and it’s a lovely town in its own right. Killarney National Park is stunning — forests, lakes, mountains, and Muckross House and Gardens. Spend an afternoon walking the park trails before the bigger drives.
The Ring of Kerry
Drive the entire Ring of Kerry. It’s a loop of about 180 km (110 miles) through some of the most dramatic coastal and mountain scenery in Europe. The cliffs, the beaches, the villages, the sheep on the road — it’s the Ireland you picture in your head, and it’s real.
Start early in the day. Stop often. Don’t rush it. The point isn’t completing the circuit; it’s the views along the way.
The Dingle Peninsula
I absolutely recommend the Dingle Peninsula. In some ways, I prefer it to the Ring of Kerry — it’s less crowded, more intimate, and every bit as beautiful. Dingle town is a charming fishing village with excellent seafood and a famous dolphin named Fungie (though he’s been less reliable in recent years).
Horseback riding on the beach. This was a highlight. Riding a horse along the sand with the Atlantic on one side and green hills on the other — it’s the kind of experience that makes you understand why people write songs about Ireland. Book in advance; the good stables fill up.
Out of the Blue. Before leaving Dingle town, eat at Out of the Blue. It’s a seafood restaurant that’s consistently rated among the best in Ireland, and for good reason. The fish is whatever was landed that morning — literally. The menu changes daily based on the catch. It’s unpretentious, warm, and the kind of place where you order whatever they recommend and trust it completely. Book ahead; it’s small and popular.
Dunmore Head. The westernmost point on the Dingle Peninsula, and surprisingly beautiful. Rugged cliffs, crashing waves, and the feeling of being at the edge of Europe. The Blasket Islands are visible offshore — uninhabited now, but once home to one of the most isolated Irish-speaking communities. Worth the drive out.
Slea Head Drive
The Slea Head Drive loops around the western end of the Dingle Peninsula. It’s shorter than the Ring of Kerry but equally dramatic, with views of the Blaskets and ancient stone forts along the way. Do it at sunset if you can.
The Cliffs of Moher
Make time for the Cliffs of Moher. They’re in County Clare, rising up to 214 meters (700 feet) above the Atlantic. The scale is hard to convey — you stand at the edge and the ocean just drops away beneath you, stretching to the horizon. On a clear day you can see the Aran Islands and the mountains of Connemara. On a stormy day, the wind will literally push you backward. Both experiences are unforgettable.
Go early or late to avoid the tour bus crowds. The visitor center is well done, but the real experience is walking the cliff path in either direction and finding a spot where it’s just you and the drop.
Day 6: Cork and Limerick
Cork
Cork is Ireland’s second city, and it has a different feel from Dublin — grittier, more independent, prouder of its distinctiveness. The English Market is a must-visit: a covered food market that’s been operating since 1788. Great local produce, artisan foods, and a sense of place you can’t fake.
University College Cork has a gorgeous campus — stone buildings, ivy, riverside walks. Worth a stroll if you’re in the area.
Limerick
Limerick was surprisingly nice. I wasn’t expecting much, and it exceeded my expectations. King John’s Castle on the River Shannon is impressive, the city has a genuine local culture that hasn’t been polished for tourists, and the people are friendly in that unforced way that’s particular to the west of Ireland.
Day 7: The East Coast — Powerscourt and Wicklow
Powerscourt Gardens
Powerscourt Gardens in Enniskerry is one of the most beautiful estates in Ireland. The gardens are meticulously maintained — Italianate terraces, Japanese gardens, a pet cemetery, and a lake with a view of Sugarloaf Mountain. Even if you’re not usually a garden person, the scale and setting are impressive.
If you want to splurge, stay a night at Powerscourt Hotel. It’s a luxury resort set on the estate, with a spa, golf course, and that particular Irish version of elegance that manages to be grand without being stuffy. It’s really pretty, and waking up on those grounds is worth the price.
The Wicklow Mountains
People really like hiking in the Wicklow Mountains, and for good reason. They’re close to Dublin but feel worlds away — glacial valleys, lakes, heather-covered hills. The Spinc trail at Glendalough is the most popular, and it earns that popularity with stunning views of the Upper Lake.
Glendalough itself — the monastic settlement in the valley — is worth a visit even if you’re not hiking. Round tower, ancient churches, graveyard crosses. It’s been a place of pilgrimage since the 6th century, and you can feel it.
Practical Notes for May 2026
Weather: Expect anything. Sunshine and rain, often in the same hour. Layers are essential. A good rain jacket is non-negotiable. Comfortable waterproof shoes will save your trip.
Driving: If you’re renting a car, remember: drive on the left. The roads in Kerry and Dingle are narrow — sometimes single-track with passing places. Take it slow, pull over for locals, and don’t stress. It’s part of the experience.
Pubs: The pub is Ireland’s third space — not home, not work, but the place where community happens. Go in, order a pint, and talk to people. The Irish are genuinely welcoming, and the best stories come from the most unexpected conversations.
Food: The seafood in Ireland is exceptional, especially on the coast. Oysters in Galway, fish and chips in Dún Laoghaire, tapas in Howth — eat the ocean’s bounty while you’re near it.
Music: Traditional sessions happen in pubs all over the country. They’re informal — musicians just show up and play. If you hear one starting, sit down and stay a while.
Money: The Republic of Ireland uses the euro. Most places take cards, but carry some cash for smaller pubs and rural spots.
The Itinerary at a Glance
| Day | Location | Highlights |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Dublin | Trinity College, downtown, Temple Bar |
| 2 | Dublin | Guinness Storehouse, DART to Howth, Octopussy’s Kitchen |
| 3 | Dublin | DART to Dún Laoghaire, Johnny Fox’s Pub |
| 4 | Killarney / Kerry | Killarney National Park, Ring of Kerry |
| 5 | Dingle / Cliffs of Moher | Slea Head Drive, horseback riding on the beach, Dunmore Head, Cliffs of Moher |
| 6 | Cork / Limerick | English Market, UCC, King John’s Castle |
| 7 | Wicklow | Powerscourt Gardens, Wicklow Mountains, Glendalough |
Marla, this is the Ireland I fell in love with. Not the postcard version — the real one. The one where it rains on you and then the sun comes out and there’s a rainbow and you’re laughing because of course that happened. The one where you end up in a pub talking to a stranger for three hours about everything and nothing. The one where you round a corner on a coastal road and the view is so beautiful you have to pull over and just stand there.
Go. Have the best time. And tell me all about it when you get back.
— Seb
Running Spots in Dublin
If you’re like me and need to get a run in even on vacation, Dublin has some great routes:
City Center to Blackrock. Run south from the city center along the coast all the way down to Blackrock. It’s flat, scenic, and you get the waterfront the entire way. About 8 km one way, depending on where you start. Perfect easy morning run.
Phoenix Park. One of the largest enclosed public parks in any European capital. Herds of wild deer roam the grounds. Wide paths, rolling hills, and you can do loops of varying distances. It’s about 11 km around the perimeter if you’re feeling ambitious. The deer make it feel like you’re running through a nature documentary.
Herbert Park to Bushy Park along the canal. This one’s more of a trail run. Start at Herbert Park in Ballsbridge, follow the Grand Canal towpath west, and end up in Bushy Park in Terenure. It’s green, mostly flat, and the canal gives it a different feel from the coastal runs. About 6 km each way. The path can be a bit uneven in places, which keeps it interesting.